So this is only potentially climbing-related, but bear with us.
You may have heard about this chunk of land near Big Bend (that gigantic choss pile near Hueco) called The Christmas Mountains. It looks something like this:
Nice, yeah. It’s been in the news because last year Jerry Patterson, the Commissioner of the Texas General Land Office (and the same guy who made it legal to ride your motorcycle in Texas without a helmet) tried to sell it to private interests. Predictably, everyone freaked out. They were up in arms over conservation, and sentimental over how there’s not much public land in Texas (which SendAustin is totally fine with and we ought to quit feeling sorry for ourselves because private access is fun too, but that’s another post altogether), blah blah blah guns, lefty yankee expats and their pinko public land ideals, libertarians, etc. A few hundred editorials later, did you say mountains?
The land is adjacent to Big Bend, and official access has been nil until last month when, amid the unceasing yakery over who will own and manage the land and if hunting will be allowed, Big Bend opened a trail. (Should you feel compelled to know more about this bruhaha, here’s a longer, newer Texas Monthly story, and some older, shorter Texas Observer coverage (more), or just google news, because every day there’s something).
SendAustin would ignore this boring political and environmental reporter circle jerk were it not for this (likely hypothetical, possibly erroneous) note in an old Austin Chronicle story:
There is no road access from Big Bend, and if there were, visitors would almost immediately be faced by the sheer cliff of Christmas Mountain itself. While the ridge provides views of the park, from that side it is reachable only by experienced climbers
Really? Just how much experience are we talking about? Experience like knowing how to place a nut, or experience like having the balls to tromp out there and rap off a scrubby tree and two cams and climb back up on TR? Because we’ve got the later. And we know people who know nut placement.
So, SendAustin asks that anyone who gets thwarted on their way to Mexico because they don’t have their registration receipt or a notarized letter from their wife authorizing them to take the car across the border to please take the weekend to hike out to the Christmas Mountains. Go find out if there is, at the very least, adventurous bouldering opportunities there. Because the possibility of climbing would make this story so much more interesting.
Here’s what that Big, Bending Chosspile has to say for itself:
Big Bend National Park is not typically considered a climbers’ destination, but it offers some scenic, challenging, and wildly varied rock climbs. Over the years, park visitors have often inquired about climbing, but there is little written. A rudimentary climber’s guide is available by request at most visitor centers.
Climbing in the park is unofficially discouraged because there is little written information to disseminate, the quality of rock ranges from fair to terrifying, the weather can be extremely harsh, and the approaches can be long, waterless ordeals. Bolting of any kind, electric or hand, is strictly forbidden. Climbing in Big Bend National Park can be very rewarding, but leaving any trace of impact on this resource, over time, will surely jeopardize access.
…
Geology
The majority of the park’s exposed vertical rock is composed of unstable igneous rock (rhyolite) and sharply fluted limestone. River canyon routes, Dog Canyon, and Mesa de Anguila routes are generally composed of limestone. Routes in the Chisos, Grapevine Hills, and Pine Canyon are generally composed of igneous rock. Don’t let this discourage you too much; there are relatively solid climbs on igneous rock. As stated by Roger Sigland in his informal guide, “On any climb expect rotten rock and few good cracks for pitons.
Equipment
Most climbs in the park require traditional gear from small nuts to off width protection. Many climbs involve a significant approach so check the weather and pack accordingly. Helmets are highly recommended.
Bolting
The use of portable electric drills is prohibited. Hand drilling is allowed only with written approval of the Superintendent. There are routes with bolts and even a few sport climbs in the park, but some were placed prior to any rules on the subject and some were placed illegally. Replacement of old bolts with 3/8 inch bolts is currently allowed.
And here are some photos by MerrickAles of bouldering in the Guadalupe Mountains, which is also often written off as choss near Hueco and not worth the hike:
See? It might be really cool!
